Inverness Castle above the River Ness, with the town on the far bank.
The river · Inverness

Places/Scotland

The Highlands

Inverness

The town at the top of the Great Glen, more useful than it is famous, and the right night before the north.

Stay
1–2 nights as a hinge, not as the holiday
Best for
a Highland railhead, Loch Ness without the coach, going further north
Base
In the centre, on foot from the station. A car-based lodge on Loch Ness is a different holiday and a poor idea if you arrived by train.

Inverness is the capital of the Highlands in the practical sense: trains, a river, a castle on a hill, and roads that leave for the west and the far north. It is not pretty in the Edinburgh way. It is the correct place to sleep if tomorrow you are going to Skye, Ullapool, or the Cairngorms.

Give it a day and a night. The mistake is to treat Loch Ness as the attraction and the town as a garage. The loch is a long body of water. The town is a riverside walk and a good supper.

See

  • The river and the islands

    The Ness Islands are a short walk from the centre and the best half-hour in town.

  • The castle viewpoint

    The building itself has been a court and a workplace. The view down the river is the point.

  • Culloden, if the history is yours

    A bus ride east. The battlefield is well explained and not a theme park. Allow the morning.

  • A boat only if you want a boat

    Loch Ness cruises leave from Dochgarroch and Drumnadrochit, not from a monster ticket office in the high street. Go for the glen, not for a sighting.